I was running out of patience. Then, this year, right now, a few total 8 of those spurs are flowering. This tree is at least 7 yrs old before it bloomed for me. Comparing to my William's Pride that bloomed in 2 yrs. We seem to have the same issue of Honey Crisp taking its sweet time to be fruitful.
I hope some of those blooms will develop into apples. It'd be maddening if they all drop!!! I can't believe I never heard about this issue before. Okay, I guess I'll just be patient and wait another year or two. Meanwhile I am grafting a bunch of other varieties onto it as well, so I suppose maybe if I never get a Honeycrisp apple, I'll still get some other stuff. The Esopus Spitzenberg branch seems to be taking nicely. I'm curious if the branches were ever tied down on your HC? I trained branches horizontal on PixieCrunch and GoldRush and they both flowered year 3.
I will be tying down a HoneyCrisp in the spring - I hear it helps get them fruiting. I've never had such a problem with Honeycrisp and find it very cooperative as far as rapidly coming into productivity and setting fruit annually- and mine are on ! I'm not talking about just a few trees either- they are a popular variety in my nursery.
However, I won't plant any fruit tree besides paw paws that get less than 6 hours of sun although I manage some. I've found there are certain varieties that do better in shade than others, so maybe this is a weakness of Honeycrisp unless you have been stubbing back branches when you prune.
That can keep a tree vegetative almost indefinitely when done aggressively enough. My mistake must have been pruning it hard.
In the spring of I think , not only I stubbing back branches, I chopped off one of the two competing main leaders!! Double bad, I guess. Still, by , it was a 5 yrs old tree with not one fruit spur!!! I've read about horizontal branches tends to produce fruit sooner, too.
Although all the branches are branched out nicely, I will tie down some branches as an experiment. I'll do anything to get this darn tree to produce more fruit spurs. I had the same problem with my honeycrisp.
I assumed it was not enough chill hours? I was going to replace it with a pink lady that needs fewer chill hours. I've got a Golden Dorsett that I planted this year. It was late budding out but it is covered with blooms right now. All of my fruit trees I've planted have bloomed by the second year at least.
Usually I don't do much to my trees except let them grow and trim them a little when they grow too wild. I got a Honeycrisp on G. Last year I got 4 apples. My Pink Lady planted in on the same rootstock seems to think it's supposed to be in the Southern Hemisphere.
It would NOT drop it's leaves last fall and now it looks as if all of last years growth is dead. The trunk above the graft looks alive but nothing else. If you're having trouble with Honeycrisp then maybe Pink Lady is the answer. I may have to yank mine. I've never heard of Honeycrisp being a problem as far as fruit set- it's getting that fruit to maturity in sound shape that is the problem discussed in the industry.
It is extremely widely planted, why not google around and see if this has been an observed problem by growers that plant thousands of these trees?
Tree varieties suffer nutrient deficiencies in unreliable ways, inconsistent between varieties. Commercial growers usually go to great lengths to avoid nutrient deficiencies. Maybe some leaf analysis is in order if you can't get Honeycrisp to flower.
Last year i planted a honeycrisp from Home Depot it bloomed and lost it's buds, second year in the ground it had more flower buds and they seem to be pollinated and growing. Last year I planted a honeycrisp from Home Depot it bloomed and lost it's buds, second year in the ground it had more flower buds and they seem to be pollinated and growing. Home Depot stores in my area do not offer a fancy apple variety like that. They have mostly McIntosh.
Again, I don't buy fruit trees from them for fear of getting a mislabeld tree. Part of my Honey Crisp's delay of fruit production could be because of my poor pruning but it should not be the only reason. This was the first year it flowered. The 7 yrs old tree has a totally of 8 clusters of flowers!!! So far, there are 8 fruitlets that look like they will make it. To add salt to the injury, people also say Honey Crisp has a tendency to be biennial.
If next year it does not earn its keep, I may graft other varieties on it instead. It's hard to pass on healthy trees at Home Depot. I have bought from local nurseries, on line nurseries and Home Depot and Lowes. One from Home Depot was a granny instead of a golden delicious and one from a local nursery was supposed to be a Mac and I still don't know what it is.
There is so much work involved in getting a tree to maturity and managing its fruit that for most people it's better in the long run to buy trees from a reliable source where you know the rootstock and the scion is reliably true to label. I do love a bargain, and often pay dearly for the quest- say by buying workboots on-line at huge discounts and discovering their being dumped at a cheap price because of a fatal flaw in their production but I'll never even consider buying a fruit tree from an unreliable source.
It is just too heart breaking to find out 4 years later or sometimes more that you've been sold a bogus labeled tree. Very true Harvestman. I still wonder about the rootstock on my big box store trees, but I have some nice Macs, winesap, Jonagold, Golden delicious, Anna, Liberty and honeycrisp that have given me apples in the second year. Time will tell if they disappoint me. I would never have begun by ordering on line so in a way the big box stores have been good to on line purchases, they gave me a taste of what was out there.
Well, the boots I'm wearing today are very well made, breathably water-proof by a well known maker that were a wonderful bargain. Just because I have to return every third bargain I purchase doesn't mean I don't get lucky more often than disappointed. I've heard of Home Depot customers being very pleased with the purchases of fruit trees they've made.
I just get more annoyed by the bad luck in this area than other purchases I make. Last broccoli I bought from Home Depot was cauliflower. Blame myself though, if I'd been paying attention I'd have seen the difference before buying. Even generally reliable nurseries make their share of mistakes.
For several years Adams sold a J. Now that their retail customers are more savvy I don't think they do that kind of thing anymore, however. I should also give Kudos to you and others on this site. I knew nothing before reading things here and using what I learned on my trees. Without these tools I never would of even bought a apple tree from a big box store. I've had my Honeycrisp tree on dwarf rootstock for about five years and it started blooming when it was two.
Last year it didn't bloom but that was likely due to rabbit damage. This year it bloomed well and it looks like I'll get a bunch of apples if I can keep the PC from getting them. I'm on the 7th year with a Fuji that was probably years old when I planted it.
Just this year it has produced more than ONE apple. There's about a dozen apples on it. I'm learning too and it seems patience is a factor many of us didn't put enough of it in the equation for. I did fertilize with blooming and rooting fertilizer in February and noticed a LOT more blossoms on it and the McIntosh, same age, though about 40 apples on it.
I'd say wait another year or two. I am hoping next year production is amped up. Fuji is a challenge on vigorous rootstocks. It produces over sized branches that stay vegetative for a long time if they aren't removed early in the training process. They also need to have branches thinned earlier than other varieties, it seems, so spurs get adequate light to form flower buds. Up here they are difficult to get annual production even for commercial growers using chemical thinners and intense nutrient management.
We planted a honeycrisp last year. Now I'm worried. I wasn't expecting fruit this year, but was hoping maybe next year. I lived in MInnesota when Honeycrisp first came out. Actually I got it before it came out at U OF MN brought it to the nursery I was working at and asked us to grow it after signing the propagation agreement.
I sold many Honeycrisp to a friend starting an orchard. Typically grown in cooler climates, this tree is perfect for the gardener located in the Midwest and Northern regions of the United States. Honeycrisp apple trees reach a height of 14 to 18 feet and a width of 12 to 15 feet at maturity. The average apple is between 2. Honeycrisp apple trees require about eight hours of direct sunlight every day.
This sunlight is especially important in the morning to dry the dew from the leaves, which will help reduce the spread of diseases and kill fungi and bacteria. You should plant your tree in well-drained soil, specifically loam soil. Loam soil is mostly made of sand and silt with a little clay. The pH of the soil should be between 6.
You can maintain tree growth by applying fertilizer annually during the spring. The best type of fertilizer to use is one with high levels of nitrogen because that promotes plant and leaf growth and a vivid green color in leaves. One potential nitrogen-rich fertilizer grade is Fertilizer grades are broken into their primary ingredients—nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Honeycrisp apple trees should be watered regularly to keep the roots moist. When temperatures are high, which is typically between May and October, you should aim to water your tree daily.
Hold the watering can over the base of the tree to allow for the water to penetrate seven inches down into the root system. The Honeycrisp apple tree grows best in cold hardy zones 3 and 4 , which have average annual minimum temperatures between and degrees Fahrenheit. However, the plants can still survive in grow zones 6 and 7, which have warmer climates. The best time to buy and plant a Honeycrisp apple tree is in the spring or fall when the ground is cold but not frozen. Honeycrisp apple trees are typically bought as bare root trees, meaning that the tree was grown in the ground, pulled out while it was dormant, shaken free of soil, and stored in a container with moist material.
This is the easiest way to transport an already growing tree. From the earliest varieties to the late bloomers, flowering usually lasts about one month. Different varieties start and peak at different time, with peak bloom for any one variety lasting about one week. In order for pollination to occur, the bloom times of your Honeycrisp and its pollinator must match or overlap enough so that pollen availability coincides with bloom fertility.
Honeycrisp blooms in early- to mid-season, with bees doing most of the pollen transfer. Leave at least 15 feet between your trees, but keep the pollinator tree within a bee-preferred feet of your Honeycrisp, advises the University of California, The California Backyard Orchard.
Many apple trees that produce fruit for eating match and overlap Honeycrisp's bloom times through a wide range of hardiness and chilling zones. Among them, "Fuji" apple Malus domestica "Fuji" requires just to chill hours while "Golden Delicious" needs to chill hours. All three varieties are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. Ornamental crabapples such as "Snowdrift" Malus x "Snowdrift" , hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8, are excellent pollinators for Honeycrisp and other apple trees that produce fruit for eating.
Many commercial apple growers turn to crabapple pollinators because they have extended bloom periods and abundant pollen.
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